Dust collection in a home shop

Dust collection is important for shop cleanliness as well as protecting our health. While no system is 100% perfect, the assortment of methods shown below that I use in my shop does capture 99% of the dust. A Delta two bag dust collector handles the larger ports, while I use shop vacs for tools with smaller orifices.

4" hoses connect table saws, jointer and radial arm saws to Delta two bag dust collector

Table saw connected to dust collector plus improvised  fence collection

Auto switch from Sears turns on vac when tools are activated

Sanding bench connected to collector, sander and Sears bandsaw connected to vac

4" hose collects dust on my Craftsman radial arm saw

Overhead collector removes dust in the air

View from below of improvised dust collection on older Craftsman jointer

Second tablesaw connected to 4" system, and improvised router table dust collection

There are Sears coupons available for shop vacs.

Remodeling with Photoshop

Recently a prospective client saw a portico that I had built for a neighbor and asked if I could do something similar for his house. One of my first steps in making a proposal is to put together a mock-up of the design. Using Photoshop, I superimposed the existing portico onto the front door area of their house.

The picture below shows the client's house with the existing landing, steps and railing. The photo to the right is of the neighbor's portico. The second row shows options for a tall and medium sized portico. I think the shorter version fits this house.

Here's how I superimposed the portico on the house:
(1) I start with monochrome (black and white) photos so that I don't have to try to match colors, just the contrast and brightness. In Photoshop, change color to monochrome by going to image/mode/grayscale.  Then I set the resolution for both photos the same. 

(2) I cropped and copied the portico roof from the photo of the neighbor's house. The rectangular marquee is a good selection tool for rectangular areas, but for the angled roof slope I used the polygonal lasso tool. Since the photo is taken from the opposite angle, I reversed the image horizontally by going to image/rotate canvass/flip canvass horizontally, drug it to the client's front porch, then re-sized the pasted image using trial and error until the front door was the same size in both photos.  The roof's shadow on the side wall of the house over the door was a fortunate accident from pasting.

(3) The horizontal view angle perspective is also a little different in the two original pictures, so I used the "Skew" function in Photoshop. First I increased the size of the canvas for the portico shot so that I would have room to work. Then I pulled the corners so that the deck lines were at the same angle, giving the two sets of stairs the same perspective. It took a few tries but eventually I had a fairly close match. Each attempt required going to "edit / step back" so that only the correct image would be pasted in permanently.

To finish, I used the rectangular selection tool, copied parts of the posts and pasted them in, then used the paint brush and line functions to finish. It wasn't necessary to make a perfect photo, but starting with a basic visual model of how the finished product will look helps both the client and the designer.

View a previous article about using Photoshop with cabinetry images.

The best storm door

Andersen 4000 fullview storm door

I replaced a dozen storm doors this year, and the best by far is the Andersen 4000 Fullview series, priced at $279 - $319.00 at Home Depot. Construction is similar to the less expensive 3000 series, but the unique mechanism for switching screen and glass panels in the 4000 models makes it worth the difference in price.

Lower end units use thumb screws to hold the panels in place, which worked but is unsightly. Andersen answered this in the 2000 and 3000 series by using plastic strips that snap in place around the panels. These strips are  hard to get in without a hammer and block, and even more difficult to remove without breaking them. Most homeowners never switch the glass and screen panels because of this difficulty. Not so with the 4000 series. 

Paint brushes can last forever

On the left is pictured a Purdy paint brush I've been using for ten years. The 2 1/2" angled design is perfect for painting straight sharp lines as well as for general usage on medium size surfaces. Purdy is the choice of all professional painters for the quality of their paint brushes -- the bristles do not fray, bend, or fall out and the brush keeps its shape. I prefer their nylon bristle brushes which can be used with any paints, although the china bristle brushes perform beautifully with oil paints. In my carpentry work I often paint my own finished products, and I always paint the cut ends and edges of exterior boards to prevent them from rotting. A good brush can last forever if you take care of it. The immediate concern is to not allow paint to dry on the brush. On the job, you can delay that by wrapping the paint-soaked brush in plastic or aluminum foil when you're not using it. Try to remember to clean the brush soon after you're through with it. For the first step, latex cleans with water, oil base and urethane cleans with mineral spirits, turpentine etc.. Shellac (such as BIN primer) cleans with denatured alcohol.. A wire brush using down strokes the length of the bristles will help you remove hardened particles.

Clean your brushes with paint thinner in a large yogurt container. The old paint sediment will settle to the bottom. After several days carefully pour the clear thinner from the top into another container for reuse. Dispose of the paint sediment in the original container.

My final step is to clean the brush again with hot soapy water until the brush is clean and all residue of the paint and solvent is gone. I then wrap the brush in a fresh piece of aluminum foil to keep it moist and to retain a perfect point.


Purdy brushes have always been the professional's choice, long-lasting when properly cared for.  Cheap dollar-store brushes should be considered disposable, used for contact cement or difficult to clean paints.  At about half the price of a Purdy brush, eco-friendly PX brushes sold at K-Mart are receiving great reviews. 

Look here for Kmart coupons for painting supplies.

A plaster craftsman in Rockport MA

Craig Moore of Rockport on the Massachusetts North Shore learned to plaster with a 3rd generation ornamental plasterer. He is skilled with stucco and ornamental work, plaster molds, and specializes in the intricacies of
mixing and matching textures. For the past 15 years Moore has focused on restorative and contemporary projects throughout New England, focusing on the craft and artistry of fine plaster work.

On his site, Craig states “Plaster has its own unique characteristics that set it apart from other building materials. Whether preserving a 17th Century home or repairing a crown molding on Beacon Hill, each mix counts and achieving that certain look to the project at hand requires skill as well as an inner passion to create sound surfaces that represent and present strength and elegance".

Craig Moore Plastering specializes in transforming older rooms back to their original form, repairing and making adaptations to match the original or desired aesthetics.

Read Craig's post about working on Howlett's, an historic house overlooking Folly Cove in Rockport.

Moore Plastering, 10 Union Lane, Rockport, MA 01966 .
(978) 546-3978 or info@mooreplastering.com

EPA Lead Paint Law

Effective April 22, 2010, remodeling contractors working on residential homes, home day care centers or any other "child-occupied facility" built before 1978 must be certified to perform any work affecting more than 6 square feet of interior or 20 square feet of exterior surface. Failure to comply can generate very serious penalties for contractors and painters. An opt-out option for homeowners has been eliminated. An employee will also need to be certified as a Certified Renovator, responsible for training other employees and overseeing work practices and cleaning. Owner and Certified Renovator certifications are valid for five years. Firms must be certified as well, and a self-employed person must obtain certification as a firm and as a worker. The following is a brief description of the law and requirements.

While these laws do not apply to homeowners doing their own work, contractors should not take chances-- Fines can exceed $37,500 per day

Compliance training session for contractors

Coverage: The EPA rules apply to renovation, repair and painting (RRP) work conducted for a fee in pre-1978 housing and child-occupied facilities where the work involves the disturbance of more than 6 ft²of painted surfaces per room or more than 20 ft² of paint on exteriors (total). Unfortunately for people who wish to update their windows and doors, these quantity exemptions do not apply, and the full procedure described below must be done for even the installation of replacement window sash requiring any removal of old sash or moldings.  

Draconian rule in effect

Work Practices:Before the work starts warning signs must be posted outside the work area and set up containment to prevent spreading dust, applicable to both interior and exterior projects. Open flame or torch burning, use of a heat gun that exceeds 1100°F is forbidden. Motorized sanding and grinding must be equipped with a HEPA exhaust control. Occupants must be excluded from the work area, which must be isolated from the rest of the dwelling or child-occupied facility by appropriate means. Plastic sheeting, which must be disposed after each use, must be used to cover floors and other surfaces on building interiors and plants and ground on exteriors. EPA specifies the use of a “cleaning verification” procedure, which is carried out by the on-site ”Certified Renovator” to determine if interior work areas have been adequately decontaminated.Massachusetts DOS allows the use of tarpaulins to cover plants and ground on exterior projects, provided that the tarpaulins are thoroughly decontaminated after each use and not subsequently used for any interior work in target housing and child-occupied facilities.

 Completion and cleanup: HEPA vacuums must be used, not just shopvacs with HEPA filters.  Clean up procedures must be supervised by the certified renovator, following EPA guidelines. The certified renovator must verify the cleaning by matching a cleaning cloth with an EPA verification card. If the cloth appears dirtier or darker than the card the cleaning must be repeated.

Verification and record keeping: Complete records on the project must be kept by the certified renovator for three years, including verification of owner/occupant receipt of the Renovate Right pamphlet, Certified Renovator certification, and proof of worker training.

Exemptions
(1) The home or child occupied facility was built after 1978.
(2) The repairs disturb less than six square feet interior or less than 20 square feet exterior (no exemption allowed for windows)
(3) If the house or components test lead free by a Certified Risk Assessor, Lead Inspector or Certified Renovator

Massachusetts: EPA supervises this rule except in states such as Massachusetts that have been given the ok to run the program. Firms or other entities performing work require licensure as “Lead-Safe Renovation Contractors,” in Massachusetts or as “Certified Firms.” under EPA administration. Massachusetts DOS allows Deleading Contractors licensed by 454 CMR 22.00 to perform renovation work without the separate license.

Contractor Licensing Fee Documentation: The license costs $375 for five years in Massachusetts.Applicants must submit identifying information,professional certifications related to lead-based paint activity and any previous violations.. Companies must document that a person in a supervisory capacity has received the one-day Lead-Safe Renovator-Supervisor (“Certified Renovator”) training.Entities with employeees must document that a medical monitoring/respirator protection program is in place. The license requires corporate articles of organization, business certificate, etc., as applicable. If an employer, list your current and past employees and document workers compensation coverage.

On-site Supervisor Requirement: EPA requires the supervisor (“Certified Renovator”) to be on site only during certain phases of the work. Massachusetts DOS requires the supervisor (“Lead-Safe Renovator Supervisor”) to be on site at all times when RRP work is in progress.

Training and Certification Requirement for Supervisors: EPA requires a one-day “Certified Renovator” course given by an EPA-certified training provider. The training/certification is good for five years, after which time the “Certified Renovator must take a one-half day refresher course. Mass DOS also requires respirator/personal protection training elements for firms with employees, apparently not required for self-employed persons.

Certification and Licensing: DOS allows firms that were certified with EPA as “Certified Firms” prior to July 9, 2010 to perform RRP work in Massachusetts without becoming licensed by DOS as a “Lead-Safe Renovation Contractor.”

• Comprehensive: Title 40 law , US code of Regulations
• EPA compliance guide for the general public
• EPA compliance guide
• New England Keep it Clean brochure (two pages)
• Massachusetts Home Builders Association
• Fiscal Times article about how this law effects us all
• Certification classes  by Mass. Home Builders Association
• Contractor advice from Pro Tool Reviews
• Lead based paint test kit
• Massachusetts certification course
• Massachusetts Lead Safe Renovation Contractor Bulletin.
• "Massachusetts: Information for Contractors"
• Massachusetts Lead-Safe Renovator Contractor application

email Gordon : gordonharris2@gmail.com

Determining the "hand" of a door

Door hand for interior and in-swing exterior doors

Determining whether a door is a "right hand" or "left hand" door mystified me until I discovered that it has historically meant the hand that would pull the door knob when you are facing the door.  But that's confusing--people don't actually pull the door knob on the right with their right hand. because they would need to change hands half way.  Confused?  read on....  

INTERIOR DOORS: You can push an unlatched door from one side, but you must pull it from the other side, so interior doors are determined from the inside using this method.  If standing facing the door from the inside your right  hand is next to knob, you have a right hand door.. If  the knob is closer to your  left hand, it is a left-hand door. (If you have a pair of French doors, treat the door as if it is the only one in the opening.)

Hinge method:  Open the door. Standing with your back against the hinges, inside the frame, take note of which of your hands is closest to the door.If the door is to your left, it is a left-hand door.If it's to your right, it's a right-hand door.

Silly hinge method:   With the door closed and your back against the hinges.  If the door is on your right, you want to open it in to your left. It is a left hand door. ( If you were standing in front of it, the knob would be by your left hand.) Ditto for the right.

ENTRANCE DOORS, IN-SWING  (Normal Swing) -- (The results are the same, but the procedure can be a little confusing). Door swings for exterior doors are often determined while standing on the outside facing in. While facing the door, and if the door opens in, it is "Normal Swing". If looking from the outside the hinges inside are on the right side of the door, the door is "right handed" or "right hand hinge" (inside, the knob would be by your right hand). If from the outside the hinges (again, on the inside)  are on the left, it is "inswing left handed or "inswing left hand hinge" ( facing from inside the knob is by your left hand). So, this is similar to interior doors. But having two different phrases that mean the same thing is not good.  Since you don't put your hand on the hinge, it should just be "left hand" inswing

Determining hand for Entrance doors

REVERSE SWING ENTRANCE DOORS, (OUT-SWING) . Brosco, a huge wholesaler of doors, uses thisconfusing way to determine swing.  If the door swings outward, it is "Reverse swing" and the hand is described in reverse:
"Left hand reverse (LHR)": Standing outside the house facing the door, the hinges are on the left, the knob on the right.
"Right hand reverse (RHR)": Standing outside the house the hinges are visible on the right, knob on left,  So, how to remember this one exception for the hand?  Entrance doors opening outward are "Reverse" so, the hands are reversed from normal.  Better yet, use one of the following methods to describe swing:

Handing for outswing doors

ENTRANCE OUTSWING DOORS

"Right-hand Outswing": From outside, the door swings out, is hinged on the right side, and the lockset is on the left.
"Left-hand  Outswing": From outside, the door swings out, is hinged on the left side, and the lockset is on the right.  
.

SLIDING ENTRANCE DOORS. Standing outside, the direction that the door must slide determines whether it is right or left hand. Facing the door from the outside, if the handle is on your right side, you are going to open it with your left hand so you can slide it fully to the left. It is a left hand door.

MAKING SURE:   In the 35 years I've been hanging doors, I've heard it explained many ways, sometimes wrong, especially when referring to outswing entrance doors. When ordering a pre-hung door unseen, make sure to describe the direction the door opens and which hand will pull on the door. Draw a little sketch to make sure.