Gordon Harris Carpentry

The Oscillating Tool: How did I manage without this ?

2012-02-17T15:20:00.000-08:00

A friend told me about an oscillating blade tool he used to undercut his living room baseboard so that he could slide new flooring boards underneath rather than pull the baseboards and have to deal with all the re-nailing, patching and painting. This tool is so new that it hasn't yet earned a nifty name like "sawzall" or "circular saw", and is simply called "Oscillating Tool". They can be rather pricey and I held off on purchasing until I saw the Master Mechanic 129315 2.5-Amp Oscillating Tool with Tote Bag and 34-Piece Accessory Kit on sale for $47.49 at Amazon.com. The day it arrived it helped me made quick work of removing "brick mold" window trim. I simply pried the boards out 1/6" from the sheathing , cut the nails with the metal oscillating blade and pulled the window out without having to remove the casings. On a bathroom tile job yesterday I used the oscillating tool to cut out the bottom 3/8" of drywall so I could slide the tiles underneath, as shown in the photo above.

The other reservation I had about picking up this tool was the exorbitant prices I've seen for the blades. The Master Mechanic oscillating tool comes with a nice tote bag full of blades, but just like a sawzall, you'll go through blades when you discover how handy this tool is. Metal-cutting blades wear quickly, especially if you hit a hardened sheetrock screw. There are a lot of mounting systems but Versa-Tool makes quality universal oscillating tool blades that fit most systems including the Master Mechanic model. At $39.95, the price for the 1-3/8-Inch Wood Cutting Universal Oscillating Saw Blade 10 Pack, and Bi-Metal Universal Oscillating Saw Blade 10 Pack is what you would pay for just a couple of these blades at the big box stores.

Dust collection in a home shop

2011-11-22T15:54:00.000-08:00

Dust collection is important for shop cleanliness as well as protecting our health. While no system is 100% perfect, the assortment of methods shown below that I use in my shop does capture 99% of the dust. A Delta two bag dust collector handles the larger ports, while I use shop vacs for tools with smaller orifices.

4" hoses connect table saws, jointer and radial arm saws to Delta two bag dust collector

Table saw connected to dust collector plus improvised fence collection

Auto switch from Sears turns on vac when tools are activated

Sanding bench connected to collector, sander and Sears bandsaw connected to vac

4" hose collects dust on my Craftsman radial arm saw

Overhead collector removes dust in the air

View from below of improvised dust collection on older Craftsman jointer


Second tablesaw connected to 4" system, and improvised router table dust collection

There are Sears coupons available for shop vacs.

Remodeling with Photoshop

2011-11-17T17:03:00.000-08:00

Recently a prospective client saw a portico that I had built for a neighbor and asked if I could do something similar for his house. One of my first steps in making a proposal is to put together a mock-up of the design. Using Photoshop, I superimposed the existing portico onto the front door area of their house.

The picture below shows the client's house with the existing landing, steps and railing. The photo to the right is of the neighbor's portico. The second row shows options for a tall and medium sized portico. I think the shorter version fits this house.

Here's how I superimposed the portico on the house:
(1) I start with monochrome (black and white) photos so that I don't have to try to match colors, just the contrast and brightness. In Photoshop, change color to monochrome by going to image/mode/grayscale. Then I set the resolution for both photos the same.

(2) I cropped and copied the portico roof from the photo of the neighbor's house. The rectangular marquee is a good selection tool for rectangular areas, but for the angled roof slope I used the polygonal lasso tool. Since the photo is taken from the opposite angle, I reversed the image horizontally by going to image/rotate canvass/flip canvass horizontally, drug it to the client's front porch, then re-sized the pasted image using trial and error until the front door was the same size in both photos. The roof's shadow on the side wall of the house over the door was a fortunate accident from pasting.

(3) The horizontal view angle perspective is also a little different in the two original pictures, so I used the "Skew" function in Photoshop. First I increased the size of the canvas for the portico shot so that I would have room to work. Then I pulled the corners so that the deck lines were at the same angle, giving the two sets of stairs the same perspective. It took a few tries but eventually I had a fairly close match. Each attempt required going to "edit / step back" so that only the correct image would be pasted in permanently.

To finish, I used the rectangular selection tool, copied parts of the posts and pasted them in, then used the paint brush and line functions to finish. It wasn't necessary to make a perfect photo, but starting with a basic visual model of how the finished product will look helps both the client and the designer.

View a previous article about using Photoshop with cabinetry images.

The best storm door

2011-11-13T10:23:00.000-08:00


Andersen 4000 fullview storm door

I replaced a dozen storm doors this year, and the best by far is the Andersen 4000 Fullview series, priced at $279 - $319.00 at Home Depot. Construction is similar to the less expensive 3000 series, but the unique mechanism for switching screen and glass panels in the 4000 models makes it worth the difference in price.

Lower end units use thumb screws to hold the panels in place, which worked but is unsightly. Andersen answered this in the 2000 and 3000 series by using plastic strips that snap in place around the panels. These strips are hard to get in without a hammer and block, and even more difficult to remove without breaking them. Most homeowners never switch the glass and screen panels because of this difficulty. Not so with the 4000 series.


Andersen 4000 storm door, black w/bronze hardware

The 4000 series storm doors have mechanical locking tabs hidden in the door frame that are operated by the handle. Simply push the safety button up, allowing the handle to be raised to a vertical position. This disengages the tabs, and the glass or screen panel comes out by simply leaning it toward you. Put the other panel in place, and turn the handle back down to its normal position. You're done-- it takes less than a minute.

Both the 3000 and 4000 series storm doors are thicker with a solid feeling, and have redundant weatherstripping that makes them airtight when installed properly. Be sure to read and follow all instructions. The frame legs and door edge cover will have to be cut to fit your door opening. Installation takes approximately 3 hrs. If you are removing an older door, this is a good time to repaint the exterior door casings before installing the new storm door, especially since the aluminum frames on these units are about 1/4" narrower than older models, and old paint lines will show.

	Video: Installing an Andersen Storm Door
	Video: Changing Glass on the 4000 Fullview Storm Door

Paint brushes can last forever

2011-11-05T10:22:00.000-07:00

On the left is pictured a Purdy paint brush I've been using for ten years. The 2 1/2" angled design is perfect for painting straight sharp lines as well as for general usage on medium size surfaces. Purdy is the choice of all professional painters for the quality of their paint brushes -- the bristles do not fray, bend, or fall out and the brush keeps its shape. I prefer their nylon bristle brushes which can be used with any paints, although the china bristle brushes perform beautifully with oil paints. In my carpentry work I often paint my own finished products, and I always paint the cut ends and edges of exterior boards to prevent them from rotting. A good brush can last forever if you take care of it. The immediate concern is to not allow paint to dry on the brush. On the job, you can delay that by wrapping the paint-soaked brush in plastic or aluminum foil when you're not using it. Try to remember to clean the brush soon after you're through with it. For the first step, latex cleans with water, oil base and urethane cleans with mineral spirits, turpentine etc.. Shellac (such as BIN primer) cleans with denatured alcohol.. A wire brush using down strokes the length of the bristles will help you remove hardened particles.

Clean your brushes with paint thinner in a large yogurt container. The old paint sediment will settle to the bottom. After several days carefully pour the clear thinner from the top into another container for reuse. Dispose of the paint sediment in the original container.

My final step is to clean the brush again with hot soapy water until the brush is clean and all residue of the paint and solvent is gone. I then wrap the brush in a fresh piece of aluminum foil to keep it moist and to retain a perfect point.

Purdy brushes have always been the professional's choice, long-lasting when properly cared for. Cheap dollar-store brushes should be considered disposable, used for contact cement or difficult to clean paints. At about half the price of a Purdy brush, eco-friendly PX brushes sold at K-Mart are receiving great reviews.

Look here for Kmart coupons for painting supplies.

A plaster craftsman in Rockport MA

2011-09-08T07:42:00.000-07:00

Craig Moore of Rockport on the Massachusetts North Shore learned to plaster with a 3rd generation ornamental plasterer. He is skilled with stucco and ornamental work, plaster molds, and specializes in the intricacies of
mixing and matching textures. For the past 15 years Moore has focused on restorative and contemporary projects throughout New England, focusing on the craft and artistry of fine plaster work.

On his site, Craig states “Plaster has its own unique characteristics that set it apart from other building materials. Whether preserving a 17th Century home or repairing a crown molding on Beacon Hill, each mix counts and achieving that certain look to the project at hand requires skill as well as an inner passion to create sound surfaces that represent and present strength and elegance".

Craig Moore Plastering specializes in transforming older rooms back to their original form, repairing and making adaptations to match the original or desired aesthetics.

Read Craig's post about working on Howlett's, an historic house overlooking Folly Cove in Rockport.

Moore Plastering, 10 Union Lane, Rockport, MA 01966 .
(978) 546-3978 or info@mooreplastering.com

EPA Lead Paint Law

2011-07-22T17:56:00.000-07:00

Effective April 22, 2010, remodeling contractors working on residential homes, home day care centers or any other "child-occupied facility" built before 1978 must be certified to perform any work affecting more than 6 square feet of interior or 20 square feet of exterior surface. Failure to comply can generate very serious penalties for contractors and painters. An opt-out option for homeowners has been eliminated. An employee will also need to be certified as a Certified Renovator, responsible for training other employees and overseeing work practices and cleaning. Owner and Certified Renovator certifications are valid for five years. Firms must be certified as well, and a self-employed person must obtain certification as a firm and as a worker. The following is a brief description of the law and requirements.

While these laws do not apply to homeowners doing their own work, contractors should not take chances-- Fines can exceed $37,500 per day

Compliance training session for contractors

Coverage: The EPA rules apply to renovation, repair and painting (RRP) work conducted for a fee in pre-1978 housing and child-occupied facilities where the work involves the disturbance of more than 6 ft²of painted surfaces per room or more than 20 ft² of paint on exteriors (total). Unfortunately for people who wish to update their windows and doors, these quantity exemptions do not apply, and the full procedure described below must be done for even the installation of replacement window sash requiring any removal of old sash or moldings.

Draconian rule in effect

Work Practices:Before the work starts warning signs must be posted outside the work area and set up containment to prevent spreading dust, applicable to both interior and exterior projects. Open flame or torch burning, use of a heat gun that exceeds 1100°F is forbidden. Motorized sanding and grinding must be equipped with a HEPA exhaust control. Occupants must be excluded from the work area, which must be isolated from the rest of the dwelling or child-occupied facility by appropriate means. Plastic sheeting, which must be disposed after each use, must be used to cover floors and other surfaces on building interiors and plants and ground on exteriors. EPA specifies the use of a “cleaning verification” procedure, which is carried out by the on-site ”Certified Renovator” to determine if interior work areas have been adequately decontaminated.Massachusetts DOS allows the use of tarpaulins to cover plants and ground on exterior projects, provided that the tarpaulins are thoroughly decontaminated after each use and not subsequently used for any interior work in target housing and child-occupied facilities.

Completion and cleanup: HEPA vacuums must be used, not just shopvacs with HEPA filters. Clean up procedures must be supervised by the certified renovator, following EPA guidelines. The certified renovator must verify the cleaning by matching a cleaning cloth with an EPA verification card. If the cloth appears dirtier or darker than the card the cleaning must be repeated.

Verification and record keeping: Complete records on the project must be kept by the certified renovator for three years, including verification of owner/occupant receipt of the Renovate Right pamphlet, Certified Renovator certification, and proof of worker training.

Exemptions
(1) The home or child occupied facility was built after 1978.
(2) The repairs disturb less than six square feet interior or less than 20 square feet exterior (no exemption allowed for windows)
(3) If the house or components test lead free by a Certified Risk Assessor, Lead Inspector or Certified Renovator

Massachusetts: EPA supervises this rule except in states such as Massachusetts that have been given the ok to run the program. Firms or other entities performing work require licensure as “Lead-Safe Renovation Contractors,” in Massachusetts or as “Certified Firms.” under EPA administration. Massachusetts DOS allows Deleading Contractors licensed by 454 CMR 22.00 to perform renovation work without the separate license.

Contractor Licensing Fee Documentation: The license costs $375 for five years in Massachusetts.Applicants must submit identifying information,professional certifications related to lead-based paint activity and any previous violations.. Companies must document that a person in a supervisory capacity has received the one-day Lead-Safe Renovator-Supervisor (“Certified Renovator”) training.Entities with employeees must document that a medical monitoring/respirator protection program is in place. The license requires corporate articles of organization, business certificate, etc., as applicable. If an employer, list your current and past employees and document workers compensation coverage.

On-site Supervisor Requirement: EPA requires the supervisor (“Certified Renovator”) to be on site only during certain phases of the work. Massachusetts DOS requires the supervisor (“Lead-Safe Renovator Supervisor”) to be on site at all times when RRP work is in progress.

Training and Certification Requirement for Supervisors: EPA requires a one-day “Certified Renovator” course given by an EPA-certified training provider. The training/certification is good for five years, after which time the “Certified Renovator must take a one-half day refresher course. Mass DOS also requires respirator/personal protection training elements for firms with employees, apparently not required for self-employed persons.

Certification and Licensing: DOS allows firms that were certified with EPA as “Certified Firms” prior to July 9, 2010 to perform RRP work in Massachusetts without becoming licensed by DOS as a “Lead-Safe Renovation Contractor.”

email Gordon : gordonharris2@gmail.com

Determining the "hand" of a door

2011-04-22T18:56:00.000-07:00

Door hand for interior and in-swing exterior doors

Determining whether a door is a "right hand" or "left hand" door mystified me until I discovered that it has historically meant the hand that would pull the door knob when you are facing the door. But that's confusing--people don't actually pull the door knob on the right with their right hand. because they would need to change hands half way. Confused? read on....

INTERIOR DOORS: You can push an unlatched door from one side, but you must pull it from the other side, so interior doors are determined from the inside using this method. If standing facing the door from the inside your right hand is next to knob, you have a right hand door.. If the knob is closer to your left hand, it is a left-hand door. (If you have a pair of French doors, treat the door as if it is the only one in the opening.)

Hinge method: Open the door. Standing with your back against the hinges, inside the frame, take note of which of your hands is closest to the door.If the door is to your left, it is a left-hand door.If it's to your right, it's a right-hand door.

Silly hinge method: With the door closed and your back against the hinges. If the door is on your right, you want to open it in to your left. It is a left hand door. ( If you were standing in front of it, the knob would be by your left hand.) Ditto for the right.

ENTRANCE DOORS, IN-SWING (Normal Swing) -- (The results are the same, but the procedure can be a little confusing). Door swings for exterior doors are often determined while standing on the outside facing in. While facing the door, and if the door opens in, it is "Normal Swing". If looking from the outside the hinges inside are on the right side of the door, the door is "right handed" or "right hand hinge" (inside, the knob would be by your right hand). If from the outside the hinges (again, on the inside) are on the left, it is "inswing left handed or "inswing left hand hinge" ( facing from inside the knob is by your left hand). So, this is similar to interior doors. But having two different phrases that mean the same thing is not good. Since you don't put your hand on the hinge, it should just be "left hand" inswing

Determining hand for Entrance doors

REVERSE SWING ENTRANCE DOORS, (OUT-SWING) . Brosco, a huge wholesaler of doors, uses thisconfusing way to determine swing. If the door swings outward, it is "Reverse swing" and the hand is described in reverse:
"Left hand reverse (LHR)": Standing outside the house facing the door, the hinges are on the left, the knob on the right.
"Right hand reverse (RHR)": Standing outside the house the hinges are visible on the right, knob on left, So, how to remember this one exception for the hand? Entrance doors opening outward are "Reverse" so, the hands are reversed from normal. Better yet, use one of the following methods to describe swing:

Handing for outswing doors

ENTRANCE OUTSWING DOORS

"Right-hand Outswing": From outside, the door swings out, is hinged on the right side, and the lockset is on the left.
"Left-hand Outswing": From outside, the door swings out, is hinged on the left side, and the lockset is on the right.
.

SLIDING ENTRANCE DOORS. Standing outside, the direction that the door must slide determines whether it is right or left hand. Facing the door from the outside, if the handle is on your right side, you are going to open it with your left hand so you can slide it fully to the left. It is a left hand door.

MAKING SURE: In the 35 years I've been hanging doors, I've heard it explained many ways, sometimes wrong, especially when referring to outswing entrance doors. When ordering a pre-hung door unseen, make sure to describe the direction the door opens and which hand will pull on the door. Draw a little sketch to make sure.

Historic Houses in Newburyport MA

2011-04-09T18:49:00.000-07:00

Newburyport has one of the largest National Register Historic Districts in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, with over 2,900 contributing structures. In 1981, with grant assistance from the MA Historical Commission (MHC),the City embarked on the ambitious task of documenting these properties by photographing each and completing a survey form to initially assess the historic significance of each.

The National Register nomination form of the Newburyport Historic Disrtict provides an excellent introduction to the historic properties that can be seen throughout the area. Information for this page is from a City of Newburyport page created through the efforts of Arnold Lessard, a volunteer in the Newburyport Office of Planning & Development. Newburyport MA has many first and second period Colonial homes, and even more Federal, Queen Anne, Victorian , Second Empire, Greek Revival and Gothic Revival buildings, preserving a historic montage of American architectural styles . Click on the house shaped links below to view historical data about many of these houses.

If you have difficulty viewing the map and links, View Newburyport MA historic houses at Google Maps. View first and second period houses in nearby Ipswich.

View

Shelves with no visible support

2011-03-25T19:26:00.000-07:00

Wall shelves with no visible support

This is my own concept, shelves with no visible means of support, which I've utilized on both masonry and sheetrock walls. I carefully drill holes for very long 1/2" hex head bolts, then screw the bolts into the wall. The heads are cut off, and I use a square and a hammer to make sure that these long pins are level and square to the wall. Then I drill holes in the back of the shelf board such that the pins will line up into the back of the board. Using a hammer and another board so that I don't dent the shelves, I pound the shelf board on to the wall pins. The pressure of the pins on the sides of the holes holds the shelf firmly to the wall.

Removing walls

2011-03-23T20:03:00.000-07:00

Until the late 20th Century homes were usually built with small rooms connected by hallways. People now want more open space, and the entire first floors of homes are often built without doorways between downstairs areas.

This Williamstown, MA Garrison built in the late 60's has a stairway straight ahead as you enter the front door, and had a door on the right side separating the entry and living room from the dining room. I opened up the passageway and enhanced the stairs with turned baluster ends. Since the walls were non-supporting, there was no need to add supporting beams, as shown in the photo. We also removed the walls between the dining room and kitchen (not shown), and between the living room and the "music room", creating an open floor space with only a short hall to the downstairs bath and basement. Those walls ran down the middle of the house and supported the ceiling/2nd floor joists and upstairs walls. Instead of installing a beam below the ceiling line, we temporarily supported the joists and recessed a beam between the ceiling and 2nd floor.

Andersen Woodwright Architectural windows

2011-03-23T18:29:00.000-07:00


Old vinyl replacement

This week I'm installing Andersen architectural windows in a house from the 1800's (as many homes are here on the Massachusetts North Shore. Years ago the owner replaced a few of the windows with Andersen 200 series (available from Home Depot) and installed vinyl window inserts in the others. These three photos show the difference in appearance and quality .

This photo on the left shows the existing window frame with the vinyl insert, which has lasted 20 years and is still in good working condition. The U-factor (insulation value) of earlier insulated glass was .40, compared to1.00 for single pane glass and .60 for glass windows with storm windows added. The current Energy Star standard for insulated glass is .32, with .28 now available for argon-filled panes. (Observe that the wooden window casing has a molding around the edge, which was installed to meet a double layer of wooden shakes.)

Andersen Architectural

Those windows (frames, sashes and casings) are being completely replaced with beautiful Andersen 400 Woodwright Architectural series windows. Andersen's new pre-manufactured exterior casings offer several appearance options, from the brick molding of the 50's to wider 4" traditional casing shown here. Assembled and applied in the factory, the casings are easily removed for installation, held in place by a hooked extension on the wide nailing fins. The rough openings in this old house had no headers or sills, just a cut-out in the framing and wall. After framing for the new windows, I traced a line for the outside edge of the casings and cut out the shingles with a cordless circular saw. Next I screw the window into place with the nailing flange, apply a bead of silicone to the sheathing and snap the casing back on to the window. A tiny bead of siliconized latex and paint along the edge with the cedar shakes, and the exterior of the window is finished! (Watch a video about Andersen window exterior trim kits)

Old Andersen 200 series

The Andersen 200 series insulated windows that were installed years agohave also held up, but the "narrow line" frames were not designed with wide casings in mind.
We will keep these three windows in the rear of the house but will add PVC trimboard casings around the windows to match the casings in the new windows shown above. PVC boards are considerably more expensive but will last forever and hold paint well. Pine boards will not last long outside. If you prefer wood, make sure to buy cedar or a primed pine product with preservative added.

The video below shows vinyl boards being installed around Andersen narrowline windows.

Remodeling with Andersen exterior trim kits

2011-03-22T16:14:00.000-07:00

I consider Andersen windows to be the best, especially the 400 Woodwright and A (Architectural) series windows, but one problem with all Andersen windows in the past has been the 3/4" "Trimline" exterior, unacceptable aesthetically, especially here in New England where even new houses have traditional exterior wide exterior casings.. My solution has been to make flat exterior casings from wood or PVC trim boards and attach them with stainless screws around the window edge as a picture frame, with an optional sill extension of the same material, then sealing the joints with caulk. To cut out for the retrofit casings, screw a straight board over the existing siding as a guide for your saw. The board should be on the "save" side and set in depth and position so that the removed siding is exactly the width of the new casing applied. Finish the corners with a scroll saw.

Last fall Andersen introduced exterior trim kits for their 200, 400 and Architectural series windows. The pieces are constructed of fibrex and are designed to snap into the special nailing flanges that are used to secure windows in place. There is a choice of brickmold, 3 1/2" or 4 1/2" casings as well as a sill nose. Application diagram

Andersen exterior casing system

This week I am installing a dozen Andersen designer windows in a very old New England Colonial. I ordered the windows with the trim kits already assembled and snapped (temporarily) into place. After pulling out the old windows and storms I re-framed the rough opening (which had never been framed at all-- holes had been cut in the wall for the windows with no sill or header!). I temporarily secure the window in the rough opening making sure it is plumb and square, and trace the outside of the applied exterior casing, I set the window aside and removed the casing assembly, which easily unsnaps from the frame. I cut the cedar shakes along the line I had traced and remove the waste. (You can also measure and use a straightedge).

The windows are ordered with extended nailing flanges that have a hooked edge to hold the casings. After attaching the window back in the opening with the nailing fins, I caulk all around the cutout and snap the exterior trim into place. That takes less than a minute. I put a thin line of matching caulk along the cutout line, touch up the paint on the siding, and the windows are finished on the outside. They look great.

View an installation video below for the new Andersen exterior casings

sketching with Photoshop

2011-01-25T11:50:00.000-08:00

Cropped original photo that I
used to start the sketches

I've used Photoshop for years and am still learning new tricks, which comes with being a do-it-yourself person. Today I wanted to sketch a proposal for a lower cabinet and counter with shelves above. I started with an image search on Google and immediately found a photo I could use to start. I cleared out everything around it and chopped off the top and the molding on one side to get started. I then made an inverted copy of that and pasted the two together in order to double the width and number of doors. The view in the original photo was from an angle, so I used Edit / Transform / Skew to change the view to frontal. Square and plumb is much easier to work with, even on paper

mock up created with Photoshop
using the original photo

The arrangement of doors in the original photo was not the same as my design, so I copied the larger bottom section and pasted it over the top doors, keeping the large crown mold. I changed the image and canvas sizes as needed , making sure to not keep the changes proportional. I made a copy of the upper unit to start the lower unit, and cropped and resized using the same methods. I boxed and filled to make the simple drawers and counter. A bit more skewing and adjusting brightness and contrast got the appearance looking acceptable. To complete the drawing I changed the image mode to gray scale. The image in the upper left is the mock-up I created.

Modification for shelves, no drawers

Update: My client asked what it would look like if we did floor to ceiling shelves with doors instead of the combination of shallow base cabinet, counter and wall shelves. To make that sketch, I cropped out the lower section, expanded the canvas size, copied and pasted in the upper shelves in that space, and then restored the baseboard. The lower section that was to be drawers is for CD storage, so several steps of copying and pasting the shelves created the desired 6" shelf space.

basic shelves

Update 2: Yesterday I spoke with another client who wanted basic wall shelves with no doors, and I was able to use the new shelves sketch as a base for a quick mockup. By turning off the Constrain Proportions option in Image Size, I grossly expanded the shelves and then copied and pasted them to remove the doors. I pasted two halves together, keeping a little space between them for the face frame. When that was done, I used Canvas Size to reproportion these shelves to the client's requested dimensions. The three sketches are consecutive modifications based on the original photo.

Installing Ipe decks

2011-01-16T06:27:00.000-08:00

Gordon Harris

This deck beside the Ipswich River was built with pressure treated yellow pine framing and fir decking many ago. The framing is still in excellent condition. The owners wanted to replace the rotting deck with a wood that would survive the dampness of their shady yard along the Ipswich River, and eventually chose ipe, a dense and very durable wood from South America.

We replaced the fir railings with a vinyl composite rail. The builders had simply nailed the header joist to the house, and some of those nails had rusted away. I reattached the deck with 3/8" lag bolts into the house sill. With the newer copper based preservative in modern pressure treated wood it is absolutely necessary that these bolts be double dip galvanized.

This was the first deck on which I used Tiger Claw Hidden Deck Fasteners TC-4 Exotic Hardwoods. With the supplied application tool, you pound the sharp teeth of the fasteners into the side of the deck board, then screws the fastener into the joist. They make a fastener appropriate to density of the chosen deck material. They're expensive, but your deck will have no screws showing. Although I installed the decking and fasteners by myself, you may find it easier to do with the help of a second person to help you keep the boards straight. Measure from the end and mark a chalk line every three or four courses.

One of the owners' major concerns was that they were always scrubbing the algae off their railings and deck. In this environment, you will find the green stuff growing on any exterior surface that does not get prolonged sunlight. Composites, vinyl, and ipe are no exception, but much easier to clean with a power washer without accidentally causing damage to the materials. Ipe is one of the densest (and most expensive) decking materials. Whereas even careful use of power washers can wear through the softer grain on yellow pine, cedar or fir, the surface of ipe decks stays intact. I've owned my 3,000 psi Honda Gas-Powered Pressure Washer for over a dozen years, and it makes the annual job of power washing the deck go very quickly. Don't waste your money or time on a less powerful machine.

All deck surfaces should be treated with an oil or stain such as
Cabot Australian Timber Oil Penetrating Finish to prevent extensive damage from solar radiation, which slowly "burns away" at the deck surface.

We made sure to buy FSC certified ipe in order to not contribute to Amazon deforestation.

Massachusetts "Stretch" energy code

2011-01-15T17:44:00.000-08:00

As of January 1, 2011, 58 Massachusetts communities have adopted the "Stretch Energy Code in which weatherization, insulation, heating, cooling, and mechanical air exchange requirements are more stringent than the state's already strict laws. The stretch code appendix offers a streamlined and cost effective route to achieving approximately 20% to 35% better energy efficiency in new residential buildings, and 20% in new commercial buildings, than is required by the existing base energy code.

Why? Implementation of the stretch energy code in new construction can add $10,000 or more, as well as a imposing a huge new hurdle for homeowners, contractors and handymen in the towns that adopt it. Contractors are already reeling from the very severe requirements and penalties related to the new EPA lead paint law. On the other hand, the state has sweetened the pot for town officials, because dopting the stretch code would make towns eligible for grants as a Massachusetts Green Community. However, these grants are funded by Federal energy grants to the states which have not been renewed for 2011. The Stretch law has been defeated in several town meetings.

Adoption: Towns and cities in the Commonwealth may adopt Appendix 120.AA as an alternative to the base energy efficiency requirements of 780 CMR and the forthcoming 8th edition, which will be based on the recently published IECC (International Energy Conservation Code) 2009 energy code. The stretch code may be adopted by any municipality in the commonwealth, by decision of its governing body.

For residential construction a performance-based code requiring a Home Energy Rating System1(HERS) index score of 65 or less for new homes above 3,000 square feet and 70 or less for new homes below 3,000 square feet, HERS index of 80 or less for major renovations to homes above 2,000 square feet, or 85 or less for homes below 2,000 square feet. All renovations and additions may instead use a “prescriptive” approach, where specific efficiency measures are required rather than a HERS index number. The HERS rating is roughly the inverse of the energy saved under these standards as compared with the state's standard code, ie 35% energy saved = 65 HERS index.

Renovations: The ‘stretch’ energy code has less stringent energy performance requirements for renovations than for new buildings, and renovators may install specified efficiency measures and opt out of performance testing. For existing homes being renovated or expanded you may use a HERS rating or the voluntary Energy Star Builders Option Package and the base IECC 2009 code for wall insulation. Only new commercial buildings are covered by the stretch code requirements. Only the systems being modified have to be brought up to code. Additions to existing buildings are treated in the same way as new construction. The stretch code allows an exemption for listed historic buildings. There are no standards for renovating commercial buildings

Testing: Residential buildings meeting the stretch code through a HERS rating and thermal bypass checklist require independent certification by a HERS rater. Submission of a copy of the HERS report, a completed Energy Star Thermal Bypass checklist, and posting the relevant energy data on the electrical panel in the home are required and must be submitted to the local building inspector prior to receiving a certificate of occupancy.

Wall insulation: R-19 wall cavity insulation is now required in an update in the Massachusetts 7th Edition Building Code .

Resources:
Massachusetts New Homes with Energy Star program
RESNET
ICC
Core energy code
The ASHRAE 90.1-2007 standard
Q&A for MA Stretch Energy Code

C7 Bad Blade

2011-01-06T18:24:00.000-08:00

Earlier this week I needed a blade for my 5 3/8" Ryobi battery-powered circular saw and came across the "Bad Blade" on Amazon.com. Advertised as "One Blade, Any Job", this blade cuts wood, aluminum, laminates, even steel. This price was right, so I ordered it. The blade arrived in just three days, and I used it today to make a smooth even cut around the circumference of a 7" steel stove pipe. The blade did not load up, slow down or bind like a normal carbide blade would have done and it left a remarkably smooth edge on the metal I was cutting.
The blade I ordered is the BB538 5 3/8" "Bad Blade" with a 10 mm arbor and 36 teeth. The tips are very sharp with an unusual pitch, and the blade has a nice tight kerf. These blades have apparently been around for awhile in Europe and just recently made it to the states. At Amazon there are Bad Blades to fit all sizes of saws and other cutting tools.

Preventing ice dams

2010-12-27T13:22:00.000-08:00

Roof rake is used to clear snow from eaves

Today we had our first good 12" snow storm of the season here in Ipswich, Mass. After spending a few hours clearing our long driveway and shoveling the walkway I was tired, but I always make sure to rake the roof as well. For those of you not from this area, roof dams are the build-up of ice along the eaves after heavy snowstorms. Roofers now use a rubber membrane such as Grace Ice and Water Shield (also known as bitchathane) under the first four feet of shingles to prevent ice and water damage instead of traditional black felt paper.

Our 50's ranch with its low pitched roof is subject to roof dams. The ceilings are well insulated and the attic is ventilated, but in New England, snow storms often bring "warmer" weather, and when the attic temperature rises above 32 degrees the snow in contact with the shingles begins to melt, insulated from the cold by the pack of snow above it.

Streams of water begin to trickle down the roof, only to freeze when they reach the colder eaves, and the ice buildup can become several inches to a foot thick within a day. The formation of icicles is the first sign of a problem. As water builds up behind the dam, it runs under the shingles and drips down into the walls and ceilings, causing serious water damage to drywall, woodwork and flooring.

To prevent this from happening I use a wide "roof rake" with long extension poles to pull away the lower 4' of snow from the roof. This will usually prevent the buildup of ice at the eave, but occasionally allow a dam will form higher up, necessitating the removal of additional snow. Don't wait to see if an ice dam forms. It takes only a few minutes to clear the edges of snow, but when you find yourself on a ladder in the cold hacking away at an ice dam with a hammer or ax you've waited too late.

Snow removed from roof valley, rear of house

Follow up: It's the last day of January, 2011, and we've received a record five feet of snow since just before Christmas. I have diligently removed the lower 4' of snow after every storm, and there are just a few small ice dam sections, and no leaks. With a huge one-two snowstorm punch expected beginning tomorrow that could deliver an additional 2' of snow, I decided to begin removing the two feet of condensed snow that has built up on my roof. As you can see in the picture on the right, I removed so much snow with just my roof fake that I could literally climb on the roof to begin digging out the upper section with a plastic snow shovel. It took two afternoons, but I'm ready. Although the rafters still look straight and sound, this house was built without trusses so that the attics can be used for storage. The danger in this case would be that the weight of the snow on the roof would push the peak down and the rafters away from the walls. Be proactive-- remove the snow before it becomes solid ice or too packed to handle.

If you do end up with an ice dam after all, knock a chunk of ice off about ever 10 ft of the roof to allow it to dry, as in the following video:

Finishing a fireplace surround

2010-12-19T06:41:00.000-08:00

fireplace before

fireplace after

The mason who built this fireplace installed a simple mantel, but the client felt that it looked unfinished. She asked me to install some "legs" on either side to make it a complete "fireplace surround". I purchased 4 1/2"x3/4" fluted boards and constructed two corners in the shop. The existing mantle sagged slightly, so the new legs were made long enough to push the mantel back level. Here you see "before" and "after" photos.

Floating locust patio

2010-12-19T05:42:00.000-08:00

Ann wanted a small patio at the bottom of the rear steps at her home.She had ruled out brick or stone and wanted wood. I designed a 8' x12' "floating" deck that would sit directly on the ground, with pressure-treated joists that would be only a couple of inches at the stairs but bigger at the other end to compensate for the slope of the yard. Pressure treated yellow pine would not have been a desirable deck surface-- it tends to warp, especially if one side is near the ground and the face is exposed to sunlight. Ann did not want to use ipe or other exotic hardwoods extracted from tropical rain forests,and had heard about yellow locust. I had used locust for fence posts and it seemed to never rot. I picked up some freshly cut locust boards and ran them through my planer, still green and wet, and screwed them to the treated frame, using bar clamps to take out curves. When dry, locust is so hard that it is difficult to work with; my hope was that the boards would stay straight if secured to the frame, and it was an experiment that proved successful. Ann allowed the deck to dry a couple weeks and then treated it with a hardwood deck oil to minimize sun damage and stabilize moisture content. The beautiful yellow color lasted for over a year, and eventually the deck turned a nice silver gray. The boards have stayed straight and the "floating deck" looks great!

Using Jointer Pal for jointer knife alignment

2010-12-18T16:45:00.000-08:00

Mark the high point of the blade rotation on the fence

A couple of years ago I bought a new Rigid 6" jointer. It has a lot of nice features including fast speed, dust collection, heavy duty adjustments, etc., but I was happy with how it actually worked. Unless the knives were set very low it would tend to chip away at the leading and tail ends of the board, skipping the middle, and instead of straightening the board it would actually create a slight arch after several passes. Recently a friend offered me his 20 year old Craftsman table saw and jointer if I would just help him get them out of his basement. Those are dependable old belt drive machines and well worth the effort of hauling several hundred pounds of steel up stairs.

Secure your hand on the fence while loosening the blad

I started using that jointer and was pleased and surprised that it could make a perfectly straight board with a few passes.

The knives on the Ridgid jointer were getting a bit dull, so I decided to have a go at sharpening them, using my bench grinder and finishing with a sharpening stone. Fairly happy with the results, I found it very frustrating to align the
knives perfectly so that they were all at the same height. My 12" planer has small springs under the
knives which push on a guide as I tighten them in place. The jointer is the opposite-- the
knives kept slipping down. When I thought I had it as good as I could get, I plugged the jointer back in and ran a board. The sound was rough and there were very obvious planer marks. Obviously, at least one blade was sitting higher than the others.

Sliding the new 6 1/8" jointer blade into the cutter head holder

That's when I went on the web and discovered Jointer Pal., a simple tool that uses strong magnets to hold the
knives in the right position while you tighten the screw. I ordered Jointer Pal and a new set of
knives, installed them and now I have perfectly smooth boards.
Here's how it works:
(1) ALWAYS unplug any tool before working on the knives.
(2) Using a straight edge, set the feed and outgoing tables on the jointer to the exactly same height
(3) Rotate the blade so that you determine exactly where the high point of the rotation is, and mark this on the jointer fence. You can watch the knife as it push on the straight edge to determine this location

Alignment of the blade tip with the Jointer Pal in place

(4) Remove and replace knives one at a time. The knives on my jointer are secured with nuts that can be loosened with a 3/8" wrench. From the position shown in the pictures, you will actually be turning the nut clockwise, which is counter-intuitive. Be very careful-- I've sliced a knuckle more than once when the wrench slipped. To avoid that, I secure my hand against the fence .
(5) Drop the new knife in, making sure it points in the correct direction, is centered in the cutter head, and that the tip of the knife aligns with the high point mark you made on the fence. I jammed a small wedge of wood between the cutter head and the body to hold it in that position.

This 2x4 edge is perfectly smooth with no jointer ripples

(6) Now set the Jointer Pal as shown in the picture. The strong magnets in the bar on the rear hold the tool in perfect alignment with the jointer table, and the other bar is set directly over the knife so that the magnets in that bar pull the knife up, tight to the bar. Making sure that the point of the blade is still aligned with the mark on the fence, tighten the screws in a counter clockwise direction until each is snug, then finish tightening.

(7) Repeat this sequence for the other two knives, make sure all tools are out of the way, plug in the machine and your jointer will work beautifully.

New Deck Railings

2010-12-18T10:14:00.000-08:00

New railing system offers an open view

My friends have a nice raised deck on the rear of their house but were never happy with the railings and balusters that the contractor installed. The top rail was a 5/4 x 6 pressure-treated board which sagged in the middle of each span. The railings were the same material, turned on edge and nailed to the posts with pressure-treated faux turned balusters screwed on the faces instead of mounted between a bottom and top rail as they are meant to be. The owner had attempted to open up the view by removing every other baluster, which put the deck out of compliance with code. She asked me to create a railing system that would be less bulky and more open.

Existing railing: owner had removed every other baluster

I removed everything except the pressure-treated posts, which I power washed along with the deck, and then treated all surfaces with a solid dark cedar stain. I find that solid stains work best for preserving wood and protecting it from solar oxidation.

I built new top and bottom railings in my shop and then installed ¾" x 30" round black balusters attached to internal hidden baluster connectors in the railings, spaced 4 ¾" on center. After all the units were complete, I installed them at the client's location. Everything was a perfect fit!

The "not to exceed" quote for this job was $3100, charged at $50/hr for my time. Everything went well and the eventual bill for the work was several hundred dollars less.

Stairway office

2010-12-18T09:40:00.000-08:00

New stairway office

This client has an historic house in downtown Ipswich MA. Each week she works a few days at her office in Boston, but also works from home, and has used the long narrow space at the bottom of her stairwell as her home office. She asked me to design and build a desk and shelving that would maximize space and create a comfortable environment.

Wall units, desk side: Three identical 11 1/2” deep x 33 ½ ” wide x 48” tall shelf units were constructed and installed together so that the total width of the combined shelving extended from the corner of the room to the edge of the door casing, approximately 101”. The shelf frames were constructed of ¾” birch plywood, with recessed brass shelving standards . Shelving is 1x12 #2 pine boards (11 ¼” actual depth) , mounted on brass adjustable clips. All surfaces were finished with 3 coats clear semi-gloss polyurethane.

Stairway office layout

Desk unit: A 44.5” wide x 24” deep desk x 30.4” high desk was constructed with under-counter storage for the computer, and a sliding maple keyboard tray. The desktop is continuous with a work surface resting on two lateral file cabinets purchased through IKEA, extending from the corner to the door casing, approximately 101”. The front and side edge of the combined surface are joined and finished with a ¾” x 1 ½” maple board. The cabinets we used were two Bestar lateral file cabinets 19.6 D x 28.4 W x 30.4 inches H. and two Bestar Embassy vertical file cabinets to fit between radiator and angled ceiling underneath stairs.

Stairway office before renovations

Under stairs shelving: Two units were installed under the stairs. One shelving section was mounted at approximately 2” above the radiator, with one side angled to match the stair slope, approximately 41 ½” tall . Shelves on this section will be fixed in place with 3 shelf surfaces and 13” space between each. A small shelving section was installed to the right of the radiator, approximately 20” wide x 12” deep x 35” tall. All surfaces were finished with 3 coats clear semi-gloss polyurethane.

Outcome: The client was very happy with the design and construction of her new office, enjoying the greatly increased storage space, more room to work in, and its appearance as the first thing a visitor sees when they walk in her front door. The contracted price for all of the work involved was $3450.00

Under the stairway cabinetry and shelving

Ranch porches and entrances

2010-12-18T09:00:00.000-08:00

Ranch houses were popular in the 50's and 60's and offer an economical choice for basic solid construction, but have grown out of favor because their design limitations. Our home is a 1951 ranch-style, nestled nicely into the landscape. The builders broke up the visual effect of the typical long ranch front by extending the living room slightly forward, necessitating a slight increase and break in the roof line. The front doorway is modest with a small stone landing and brick steps. Although this is fairly typical in New England, I eventually want to make that entrance area a bit larger and more inviting.

My client's ranch-style home with existing porch

One of my clients recently asked me to sketch a possible modification to his own small ranch home, which has a shed type roof over a narrow front porch. I took a photo of the house and modified it with Photoshop to show how it might look with a gable over the porch instead of the shed roof. Eventually the client decided to keep the porch the same and we did some other nice interior renovations instead.

Photoshopped mockup for house with gable porch roof

This mock-up shows how the house would look if the shed roof over the porch were converted to a gable style. The owners have done a nice job with landscaping the front, and the installation of the front entrance and porch are a nice break from the usual lines of ranch houses.

Custom built-in entertainment unit

2010-12-17T09:55:00.000-08:00


Before adding new cabinet

This client has a family room with two closets and a dead space between them. He was using that space for his older large television, but was not happy with how it looked, and asked me to design and install a built-in entertainment unit for the television.

On the left is a photo of the two closets with the stand that came with the television. Photos below show the final mockup and design I created and shared with them in a series of emails, plus a photo of the final product, installed.

Photoshop mockup of cabinet

The client and his wife emailed me links to photos of arrangements they liked, and I began the process of designing their new built-in.

The photo on the right shows the mockup I created with photoshop, similar to the eventual cabinet I built.

For the sake of economy, the actual construction is a combination of pre-built and custom built parts. The base is a high-quality Kraftmaid "Polar Ridge" white standard-size 36" w x 34 ½" h x 24" deep kitchen cabinet, which I ordered from Home Depot. It has composite side construction, a wood frame, composite paneled doors with beadboard panels and concealed hinges. Above the doors is a sliding wood dovetailed drawer. My clients chose brushed nickel "clip" pulls for the drawers, 1 1/8" wide round brushed nickel classic knobs for the doors, matching the look of cabinets in the adjoining kitchen.

Cabinet layout

I designed the entertainment unit to fit tight to the existing opening, with a 4 ½" kick space to match the baseboard. It is recessed approximately 2" in the opening so that a 3 ½" crown molding (measured vertically) could be applied.. I cut in a small doorway in the rear of the closet on the right to provide access to the rear of the television for servicing, cables, etc. I built the custom sections and assembled all sections in my shop before the day of installation. Before installation all woodwork was painted to match the "Polar Ridge" white finish of the pre-finished base unit.

New entertainment center, installed

On the right is a picture of the actual entertainment unit built and installed. With all of the construction work done in my shop, installation took just a few hours in their home and was dustless. The finished entertainment unit consists of a frame that holds the Kraftmaid base section, with a 1 1/4" thick maple shelf to hold the television, and the custom built upper section to hold their 37" diagonal HD TV, with a 12" accessory shelf above. Bead board paneling in the back matches the doors on the cabinet. The total price for the unit installed was $1700.

Installing insulated chimneys

2010-12-16T19:57:00.001-08:00

Installing an insulated metal chimney in a flat or cathedral ceiling

Note: Wood stove must be installed no closer to the wall than specified on the name plate, and in accordance with manufacturer's instructions. Failure to do so can cause a fire. A permit and inspection from your town is required for installation of wood stoves and chimneys.

View complete installation instructions for Supervent Insulated Chimneys (sold at Lowes)

The following parts are required for your installation

- Cathedral Ceiling or flat ceiling support, or adjustable roof support.

- Roof Flashing Assembly

-Storm collar, installed above roof flashing assembly
-Suitable lengths of chimney: -Must be appropriate size for the wood stove, and must extend at least 2' higher than any point within 10' on the roof., capped with a rain cap
- Attic, rafter or joist shield
-Transition T from insulated chimney to the stove pipe (single or double wall)
-roof tripod support kit

Many brands of insulated chimney roof or ceiling mount systems can support a total of 30 feet, of chimney. Chimney joints made below the support must be secured with locking bands, and we recommend securing all joints with locking bands, mandatory below the support or at any turns. The chimney T-branch must extend at least three feet into the living space where the stove pipe connector will be attached to the chimney. Insulated chimneys are usually mounted from the ceiling, using the specified support system from the manufacturer. The systems are different for flat and pitched ceilings

This is the layout for a metal insulted chimney passing through a roof, using a roof support instead of a ceiling support. This method of securing the chimney is particularly suitable for cathedral ceilings. Each 3' chimney section is screwed into the next, and secured with a locking band. Insulated metal chimneys must be no closer than 2" to framing, roofing, or any other flamable material. When installing a chimney in a room with a flat ceiling and passing through an attic, you must use an attic insulation shield. In an enclosed space, such as rafters and joists, you must surround the insulated pipe with a rafter or joist radiation
shield. The Illustration below is for installing a rafter shield around a chimney that is
supported with a roof support system as shown below.

Wheelchair ramps

2010-12-16T18:41:00.001-08:00

ADA guidelines for Ramps in buildings and facilities

Slope and Rise. The least possible slope shall be used for any ramp. The maximum slope of a ramp in new construction shall be 1:12. The maximum rise for any run shall be 30 in (760 mm) (see Fig. 16). Curb ramps and ramps to be constructed on existing sites or in existing buildings or facilities may have slopes and rises as allowed in 4.1.6(3)(a) if space limitations prohibit the use of a 1:12 slope or less. 4.8.3

If the slope of a ramp is between 1:12 and 1:16, the maximum rise shall be 30 inches (760 mm) and the maximum horizontal run shall be 30 feet (9 m). If the slope of the ramp is between 1:16 and 1:20, the maximum rise shall be 30 inches (760 mm) and the maximum horizontal run shall be 40 feet (12 m).

Clear Width: The minimum clear width of a ramp shall be 36 in (40" is recommended)

Landings. Ramps shall have level landings at bottom and top of each ramp and each ramp run. Landings shall be at least as wide as the ramp run leading to it. The landing length shall be a minimum of 60 in (1525 mm) clear. If ramps change direction at landings, the minimum landing size shall be 60 in by 60 in (1525 mm by 1525 mm).

Doorways: If a doorway is located at a landing, then the area in front of the doorway shall comply with 4.13.6 of the ADA code. View doorway illustrations .

Handrails: If a ramp run has a rise greater than 6 in (150 mm) or a horizontal projection greater than 72 in (1830 mm), then it shall have handrails on both sides. The diameter or width of the gripping surfaces of a handrail or grab bar shall be 1-1/4 in to 1-1/2 in (32 mm to 38 mm), or the shape shall provide an equivalent gripping surface. If handrails or grab bars are mounted adjacent to a wall, the space between the wall and the grab bar shall be 1-1/2 in (38 mm) .Handrails shall be provided along both sides of ramp segments. The inside handrail on switchback ramps shall always be continuous. If handrails are not continuous, they shall extend at least 12 in (305 mm) beyond the top and bottom of the ramp segment and shall be parallel with the floor or ground surface. The clear space between the handrail and the wall shall be 1 - 1/2 in (38 mm).Top of handrail gripping surfaces shall be mounted between 34 in and 38 in (865 mm and 965 mm) above ramp surfaces. (A maximum height of 28 inches measured to the top of the gripping surface is recommended for handrails designed for children.) Ends of handrails shall be either rounded or returned smoothly to floor, wall, or post. Handrails shall not rotate within their fittings.

Cross Slope and Surfaces: The cross slope of ramp surfaces shall be no greater than 1:50. Changes in level between 1/4 in and 1/2 in shall be beveled with a slope no greater than 1:2. Changes in level greater than 1/2 in shall be accomplished by means of a ramp. Ground and floor surfaces shall be stable, firm, slip-resistant,

Edge Protection: Ramps and landings with drop-offs shall have curbs, walls, railings, or projecting surfaces that prevent people from slipping off the ramp. Curbs shall be a minimum of 2 in (50 mm) high. Outdoor ramps and their approaches shall be designed so that water will not accumulate on walking surfaces.

Building Permit: Local building codes probably require a permit, and may have more stringent standards.

Positioning: The ramp should end at a location accessible to transportation and leaving the property. The bottom of the ramp should be even with the ground to provide a smooth transition

Visit my Yahoo local listing to read reviews from my clients. email Gordon : gordonharris2@gmail.com